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 CNC Router Build 
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:18 pm
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Post CNC Router Build
Having a break from all things optical so time to build my self a new machine . Not really done anything yet other than Google which is fun in itself .
Thought it might be of interestest to other makers on the forum . i know their are CNC forums out their but they are so big its very hard to find the information you want .
So if anybody as any thoughts or input please post as i am open to suggestions .Just come across this one wasn't even aware their was a subdivision of cast mills very interesting . Like the chirpy fellas always seem to be laughing obviously retired :D lucky fellas


D1


Sun Sep 25, 2016 3:02 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Cool! I would not have thought to cast milling machine frames out of epoxy. Maybe the granite in it makes it stronger and less likely to warp, bend or crack. I seriously would have expected it to deflect under the loads applied when machining. The clocks they made with it are beautiful and apparently prove the concept of the cast epoxy frame with embedded T-slot profiles.

They are really serious about dressing the machine up. It looks really professional with the computer drawn labels for everything and accordion covers.


Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:16 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Inspiring videos! I And great to see the old chaps working together in such a fantastic workshop!

I would've liked to see more about the gantry part construction, its assembly and the alignment of the Z axis. I like the idea of using epoxy plus granite aggregate for the base and gantry.

Also, those thick ways in cast iron are great, but this, plus milling them flat to take the Hiwin rails is maybe a little too much to ask from the hobbyist, as one would have to have this done by an outside source. In the end, I wonder if that much solidity is really needed, or if something simpler could be built that is as effective and with good end results.

I am thinking more in terms of a 40x80 (or even 20x80) extrusion base filled with epoxy/aggregate and then a gantry maybe built with a double length of 40x80, (so it becomes 80x80) including the posts, all held together with thick (water jet cut) stainless steel brackets running across the gantry, etc. Or use 100x100 steel angle for reinforcement, or build with 5mm thick steel box section. It's got to be something easily obtainable.

Edward


Mon Sep 26, 2016 12:40 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hello well haven't done much more other than make decisions . As i am sort of following this wonderful build http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wood- ... ost1655360 but on i smaller scale .
Decided main construction material will be 80x40 steel box with 4mm wall https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/b ... -4mm/p2317
I may fill it with epoxy aggregate if it needs it but we will see . Epoxy will come in handy for leveling bearing surfaces though as i have no way of milling or grinding a 1.5 meter lenght of steel
Going to keep it simple
[flickr]ImageScreenshot (326) by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Two lengths of box will be weld on top of each other to make a 160mm deep gantry . Or do i go for 100x50 box and have a 200mm deep gantry ?
D1


Mon Sep 26, 2016 2:04 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Well done a bit more doodling in Designspark think i am getting their and had i quick add up of parts . Well its not going to be cheap prob £4000 in parts and thats been optimistic. I did consider going from round supported rails rather than Hiwin square rails that would have saved a bit . But after a bit of reading https://tech.thk.com/en/products/pdf/en_b01_008.pdf#1 it became apparent a small Hiwin type rail can take a lot more load than a much larger round rail .
On the Hiwin front theirs a handy Cad page for all their bits http://www.hiwin.de/en/CAD_Configurator.html Saves you a lot of time building things and everything is dimensionaly correct .
[flickr]ImageROUTER FRAME 1 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]ImageZ AXIS by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr].
I've decided to change my original scheme so going to have to re draw . My first thought was to have a gantry that was capable of cutting 4ft and a 2ft table .Then i thought if i ever wanted a 8x4 table it wouldn't be to hard to convert . I have now given up on that idea and just going for 2ft gantry and 4ft table . It will be a lot more rigid i think .
Prob going to weld up steel frame and maybe make the X axis and see how funds go
D1


Tue Oct 04, 2016 1:34 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
D1,
If all else remains the same, the deflection under load at the centre of an unsuported beam is proportional to the cube of it's length. A narrow gantry on a long table is definately the way to go.

Kit


Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:20 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
check out

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/


Tue Oct 04, 2016 4:33 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Kit i get the sniff of maths their :( But yes i came to the same conclusion by banging things :D How ya doing thought we had lost you hope the animation going well.
Re drawn quite a big lump!
[flickr]Image2FT ROUTER FRAME 1 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Cheers Time thats a lot of information will spend a Sunday afternoon on it
D1


Tue Oct 04, 2016 11:58 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Looking good. On the linear rail front, I've tried various brands, some cheaper but I've always preferred the Hiwins, maybe it is branding brainwash. I find that the 15m ones have got rather useless grease nipples, not standard. They come pre-greased though. I guess you've already used them before, but if not, just be careful not to remove the protective sliding plastic that prevents the balls from falling. I suppose you will be using 20mm rails, al least for the X and Y. They are not cheap!

Just be careful when you buy them, as many of these are knock offs that look identical to the genuine stuff. Also,the blocks come with various preloads, for video sliders I use very light or no preload, but for a router I would go for a stronger (medium) preload.

Edward


Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:09 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Cheers Edward yes i have had the experience with a ballscrew and balls ! It took me hours to get the little fellas back in their :(
I will be getting all my stuff from CNC4YOU price wise its more or less the same as China and it cant imagine it wont be genuine .
The main rails will be 20mm but the Z axis will be 15mm which i think will be fine . I want to keep the spindle motor as close to the gantry as possible . If it sticks out to much more chance of vibration i think.
But yes the cost of the rails is quite scary but i think it will be worth the investment . Have you decided which way you going yet .
Ps think will fill the box with epoxy granite should make it very rigid and also keep the noise down . I do find box sections act as a amplifier and its going to be loud as it is .
D1


Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:21 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Regarding using epoxy for levelling I've read that some types of epoxy can shrink on drying, not sure how much of a problem that is.
I am almost definite to go for a biggish traditional cnc mill rather than a router...at least to start with. Most of the stuff I make doesn't require the big sizes. But I may change my mind once I see a proper router (and the material finish) in the flesh.

Edward



PS. I've already got the roof and electrics in my workshop almost done, now waiting for window and skylight (both triple glazed, I don't want to upset the neighbours with noise!). The window is taking a bit longer because it's bespoke in hard wood and the top panes have a stained glass design to match the other windows in the house. But not long to go so a decision about the mill will have to be made!

E


Wed Oct 05, 2016 1:23 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
I saw a video of a guy who, to save money, bought one long ballscrew and then cut it in three pieces (for XYZ) with an angle grinder and machined the ends to suit each axis. You need to be brave on the lathe, as the outer metal is hardened. I personally wouldn't do it, but others do:)

Edward


Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:26 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Edward on the Epoxy front i was going to put a bit of aluminum powder in with it . This reduces shrinkage but you have to be careful not to make it to viscous or it wont self level . Think the amount of shrinkage on the leveling surfaces is negligible as its relatively speaking not a large volume . As for filling the box section which is a larger volume dont think their will be much issue as you are using a larger aggregate.
As for ball screws i think they are normally ground to shape . I have been toying with the idea of putting a grinding attachment on my lathe but we will see . Still haven't made my mind up to go rack and pinion or ballscrew . Accuracy is about the same but speed is much greater with a rack?
D1



Thu Oct 06, 2016 2:39 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi, D1,
Looks like you have been / going to be busy. Back from the sun hope to get some machining done soon.
I did put a video up about lapping ballscrews somewhere on here, think it was in Kit's CNC post, will look later for it.

Hope that new shed turns out ok Edward, soon be time for the log burner to ignite here.

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Sat Oct 08, 2016 9:32 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Mike had a feeling you had been away . Prob a good time to stoke up your shed interests its getting dark far to early now .
Dont think i will be turning down any ballscrews cost of them isn't as high as rails , The grinder is more for bearing shafts. I keep ordering ground steel bar and most just dont fit in bearings its supposed to . To little to machine off so usually have to get their with wet and dry very boring :( .
Going to order some epoxy next week and test this self leveling thing before i get round to welding
D1


Sat Oct 08, 2016 9:55 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi guys, yes, getting dark and chilly, ideal months to mess about in the shed:)

For reducing very tiny amounts of bar material on the lathe, you can also use green Scotch pad, then the brown/reddish ones, then finally white. The white one will give you a bit of shine. Just mind your fingers!

I have all three grades bought from industrial suppliers and they are invaluable for polishing aluminium and I have also used them to facilitate the easing in of ball bearings.

Edward


Sat Oct 08, 2016 10:22 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
[quote="DISPLACEMENT 1"]Hi Edward on the Epoxy front i was going to put a bit of aluminum powder in with it . This reduces shrinkage but you have to be careful not to make it to viscous or it wont self level . Think the amount of shrinkage on the leveling surfaces is negligible as its relatively speaking not a large volume . As for filling the box section which is a larger volume dont think their will be much issue as you are using a larger aggregate.
As for ball screws i think they are normally ground to shape . I have been toying with the idea of putting a grinding attachment on my lathe but we will see . Still haven't made my mind up to go rack and pinion or ballscrew . Accuracy is about the same but speed is much greater with a rack?
D1

i used a bridge saw with rack and pinion and chain drive from the motor never could get better than 1 mm precision. mind you i was cutting granite slabs into kitchen benchtops so 1 mm was close enough. the saw could have been 20 years old but it didn't matter how you tensioned the chain you always needed some play and then the pinion could move either forward or backwards when it stopped also there was some wear between the rack and pinion . an intermac cnc had ballscrews in x,y,z was quite abit quicker and accurate to two decimal places and a lot more fun to play with :-)
bit like a model t ford and a formula 1 car


Fri Oct 14, 2016 5:17 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Looking at the video with the grinding wheel 5 posts above, I don't see the grinding wheel moving, doesn't that mean that the stone will wear at that point of contact, rendering it useless for anything else?

Maybe a bit of grinding is fine for the outer hardened metal, maybe up to the point where you have removed the thread in the ballscrew, then I would imagine using the lathe as normal with a tungsten carbide tip should be OK?

Edward


Fri Oct 14, 2016 5:50 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Its hard to tell from video if the grinder is spinning or not . It should be though as you say it will just get a flat spot other wise .
Did waste my time making my own little version and it did work up to a point . Its just the flexible drive is crap never been able to buy a good one . This one was off eBay no bearings or grease just gets very hot and starts to lock up when driven at a high speed .
[flickr] Image2016-10-14 20.00.52 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]Image2016-10-14 19.13.33 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Tested that pump as i was machining out a bracket . Yet again worked up to a point but when i put some WD40 on it couldn't move the soggy mulch . So ok for dry cuts but not good enough with a mister .
As for rack a properly set up one their isn't much in it precision wise but def faster . Prob the chain drive was at issue or just general age .
D1


Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:18 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi D1,

Sorry to hear that the air pump wasn't powerful enough to blow the sludge.
Regarding the small grinding wheel that you have there, couldn't you just stick it directly on a drill, prop the drill somehow (or hold it by hand leaning on something) and just use it so that you remove the outer hardened bit of the ballscrew, then continue with the lathe to bring it down to size? just asking...

Ed


Sat Oct 15, 2016 1:44 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Edward not really for doing anything with ballscrews. Its just for taking the tiniest amount off bearing shafts rather than wet and drying . If i was to mount it directly to drill the grinding wheel would have to be bigger than the diameter of the drill or you would risk the chance of banging the work piece into the drill body.
Perhaps their are some better quality flexi drives out their ? Hard to tell till ya buy one .
On the pump front not total loss as its for my laser cutter but i did find this .



You can also get a pump over twice as powerful as the one i got .
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140-LITRE-PIS ... 0999453293

D1


Sat Oct 15, 2016 2:12 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
But would one at double the pressure be enough? If they were...wouldn't everybody be using this instead of a noisy compressor?

Another thing that sounded scary is what one of the guys commenting said:

Quote "What you've created there is a perfect system for injecting Legionella into the atmosphere and turning it lethal. Some sort of ultra-violet in line steriliser or at the very least instigating a weekly regime of disinfection of all the tanks and pipework."

Ed



And then I read this:

Legionella pneumophila exists widely in nature and is found in bodies of water like ponds and lakes, and also in the soil. The disease is spread by people inhaling a contaminated aerosol of fine water droplets, typically containing a much higher concentration of the bacterium than is found in nature, deep into the alveoli of the lungs. Not everyone who inhales an infected aerosol will show symptoms of the disease. It depends on the dose inhaled and their susceptibility.


Sat Oct 15, 2016 2:45 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Edward i wouldn't worry to much about the biological warfare applications of the fish tank compressor :D
You would be surprised how much water is present in a normal compressor. Hence the need for a inline water trap if you are doing quality spaying or want to protect your air tools. If you dont bleed your tank regularly quite a volume of liquid can build up .
If the bigger pump is sufficient to drive a mister i dont know . These pumps provide a volume of air but it doesn't have a great pressure.Maybe somebody out their as one and can tell us
On the cnc front just ordered a selection of epoxy's and fillers so will do some test next week hopefully .
D1


Sat Oct 15, 2016 6:18 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
All is not lost of the lathe grinder attachment . After close examination their was no lubricant at all in the flexi drive and if you haven't got a greasy gun then your stuck . Luckily i have one and after a good injection of grease it runs a lot better . For how long who knows ?
Found a good use for it to its great for making flats on shafts if i cant be bothered to set the mill up . So not a complete waste of time . :D
[flickr]Image2016-10-16 16.47.04 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]


Sun Oct 16, 2016 11:10 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi D1, sorry I missed your comments after my last post a while back. I'm still here, but no animation projects in the pipeline. 'The Fruits of Love' was fun but it's a bit daunting trying to come up with a much higher grade product when there's only one of you to do EVERYTHING it takes to make a film. I got sidetracked into building wooden clocks and a semi-automatic weaving loom with the aid of the CNC machine. At least the Engineering Division of Pipsqueak Studios is keeping busy!

Kep up the good work guys.

Kit


Wed Oct 19, 2016 5:49 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Kit sorry to hear of you abandonment of the world of animation . I noticed you had a armature up for sale on another site . Still never mind sounds like you staying busy hope ya watched the vid at beginning of this thread some great clocks their.
Back on topic final getting round to testing self leveling epoxy .Trying two types of epoxy as not much experience with the stuff normally use polyester .
Just mixed up first batch 100g resin to 100g aluminum powder. Dont think i get could get any more powder in as it was getting a bit viscous . So letting it harden off tonight and will see how it turns out tom . Theirs quite a meniscus on it but i assume you just file that off looks very flat other wise .
[flickr] Image2016-10-23 18.05.14 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]Image2016-10-23 18.27.35 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Now totally off topic :D Going to have to get a new car at some point so thinking getting a double cab this time and putting a demountable camper on the back. Will practice my ali welding as its going to be mainly carbon fiber composite http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/product_list. ... p=A_CARB_4 and ali box . Never know may come in handy for rig construction
First doodlings
[flickr]
Image110 LAND ROVER DEMOUNTABLE CAMPER by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]
Image110 LAND ROVER DEMOUNTABLE CAMPER 2 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]
ImageUSED-PICKUP---2009-LANDROVER-DEFENDER-110-DOUBLE-CAB1801301-208748-1 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]

D1


Sun Oct 23, 2016 12:48 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
D1, very, very interested in your epoxy aggregate experiment...will it dry overnight and then stay stable? Just so I understand...your first picture... is it a box that you have filled in to the brim? And your second picture looks like an empty box, maybe with a bit of the mix at the bottom? Trying to get my bearings)

You say there is a meniscus around the edge, I wonder if the rest of the surface will be complete flat or whether the meniscus will extend very gradually throughout the whole surface? Provided it is successful and flat, are you mounting the rail directly on the surface of the epoxy, or are you attaching ground steel bars to the surface first?

This aluminium powder looks a lot finer than what the two Dutch guys used in their video, which I think was some sort of granite stuff, what's your reasoning behind this?

Good luck, can't wait to hear your results.

Edward


Sun Oct 23, 2016 2:29 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
D1,
Have you seen any of Dan Gelbart's videos on YouTube? He uses real granite slabs in this micron-accurate lathe project...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFrVdoOhu1Q

Kit

PS I plan on using many of the model-making and other techniques I learned while playing with animation for other stuff. It's the technical stuff I'm good at anyway.


Sun Oct 23, 2016 5:10 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Kit hope ya keep posting anyways what ever you do your input is always much appreciated .
Hi Edward this test is just for bearing surfaces . Box steel is far from perfect so a fine epoxy ali mix should level everything off and then the Hiwin rails can be mounted directly to that.
The aggregate mix as shown in the videos at the beginning of this post will only be used in the internal space of the box section . This should in theory make the box very rigged and reduce resonance noise . Well i hope :(
Not made it into shed yet will test the other epoxy and see which is best may vac it this time just to get as much air out as possible .
D1

Ps just watched vid he is an amazing fella !


Sun Oct 23, 2016 11:56 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Well pulled yesterdays test out off its formers still felt a bit tacky this morning but seems to have hardened of during the day .
First test was with http://www.mbfg.co.uk/epoxy-resins/9727.html Realised why i dont use them in my day job their all lethal so take car with them .
Think put a bit to much ali powder in in a the meniscus is quite large . Will do another test with maybe a 75g to 100g mix .
It seems very level though so think it will do what it as to
[flickr]Image2016-10-24 15.05.33 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]Image2016-10-24 15.06.04 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Put a second test in with the other epoxy http://www.mbfg.co.uk/epoxy-resins/sp10 ... resin.html This a lot thicker so the 1 to 1 mix just to thick and didnt really self level . So next time 2 to 1 i think . Did vac it this time so should be very little air trapped in it and this may have made it more viscous to .
Will see tom
D1


Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:40 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Me again thought i would keep posting my test results as it may be handy for somebody .
As i thought the SP106 with 1 to 1 ali was to thick struggled to self level . It does seem tougher though and no surface tack that been said the 2017 as fully cured now and no tac
[flickr]Image2016-10-25 11.13.14 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Repeated test with SP106 but with 2 to 1 ali mix self leveled fine this time and seems just as tough . Carefully wet and dried the surface just to remove and dust particles that may have landed on it during curing process. It seems perfectly flat when i slide a precision ground parallel on it . So this the one i am going to go for using Hiwin rails bolted through the steel and epoxy .
Should be better than my current mill just because of the Hiwin rails but we will see .
[flickr]Image2016-10-26 11.14.42 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
[flickr]Image2016-10-26 11.14.52 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
Will test aggregate next might just get a load of ball bearings or nuts which ever is cheaper . Dont fancy washing bits of rock :(
D1


Wed Oct 26, 2016 2:51 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi, D1, assembled my slide arm at last, but will add two more bearing plates for added stability soon. Like the tests and the progress updates. Filler - what about "pea" gravel - used for pebble dashing.

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Wed Oct 26, 2016 3:04 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
This is really interesting. I would never have thought to cast a machine frame from epoxy. I guess the rails will be strong enough to prevent the epoxy from creeping into a warped shape over time. Also lots of strong aggregate will probably make it behave less like plastic.

In Russia, Stalin had this program to bring electricity to everyone. They ran power out to all the remote villages. They cast poles for the wires from concrete. Most of the ones near Moscow had marble chips as the aggregate. Not only are most of the poles still in place and intact, They are nearly impossible to cut. We stole some poles from an abandoned line out in a forest where someone had already taken the wire. We wanted to use them as a foundation for a new gazebo but had to cut them in half to be the right length. The marble ate up any tool we tried to cut it with and chiseling through by hand took a couple days for each. So, I guess what I'm saying is the aggregate makes a big difference.

On the vehicle project, A lot of guys have a similar camper that goes in the back of their pickup truck. They usually have four of those jacks that raise a boat trailer off its ball hitch. One goes at each corner of the camper and you can jack the camper up onto these feet and drive the truck out from under it. Not sure if that was part of your plan. Its real convenient because you can use the truck to haul big stuff around and drop the camper in when you want the camper. I like the second floor in the camper and the place up top for putting a tripod. Maybe put some square tube "sockets" around the edge so you can drop in posts for a rope "railing" all around the roof. Just brushing against the railing warns you that you are too close to the edge when you are looking through a viewfinder and not necessarily paying so much attention to where your feet are in relation to the edge.

I mention it because I was planning a roof rack for dolly track and also wanted it to serve as an elevated tripod platform. Sunroof makes a nice hatch to go from driving position to roof.


Wed Oct 26, 2016 8:06 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
MikeA wrote:
Hi, D1, assembled my slide arm at last, but will add two more bearing plates for added stability soon. Like the tests and the progress updates. Filler - what about "pea" gravel - used for pebble dashing.


Yeah think its going to have to be gravel of some sort just had a quick tot up of how much i would need . Quiet a lot is the answer so nuts is a expensive luxury will just have to wash the gravel well so it bonds well with epoxy ..You should start a thread about your build theirs not a lot going on in the forum at mo will give us something to talk about :D

SL dont think the epoxy will creep at all with the ali powder in it . But yes the Hiwin rails will always have the epoxy under pressure when they are torqued down .
As for camper yes its demountable . I was originally going to build a pear drop trailer for the landy but as i have to buy a new car thought i might as well go the demounable route


Wed Oct 26, 2016 1:50 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
I see........you just spread it on the steel tube like you spread butter on toast hoping that the mix is of a suitable viscosity that will level itself....

Just a thought....for the purpose of levelling to mount the linear rails, wouldn't it be quicker if you just added a length of 10x 30mm ground steel to the surface of the steel box? This would be perfectly flat to mount the rails and it would somehow sit on the irregular surface of the box, unless the tube box finish is really bumpy or bent, of course. I am not sure I like the idea of this gooey stuff too much for levelling....it seems more suitable as a filler to add weight and absorb vibration.

In my case, when converting my future mill, (starting very soon now) I think I will probably bolt the rails straight to the mill base, (for the Y axis) provided the flat area next to the dovetails on the base is flat enough. That's something that I will measure with a dial indicator.

If not, I will have it ground flat. I would want to keep the Hiwin rails as close as possible to the base. They may need to be a little elevated to clear the dovetail area

Edward


Thu Oct 27, 2016 12:39 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Think i posted this before but it may give you more of a idea what the process is http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wood- ... ost1655360.
The advantage of self leveling is that the two Hiwin rails will be perfectly level with each other because you include a few bridging sections .
This allows the epoxy to flow between both positions for the Hiwin rails . You could flood the entire face of the gantry but thats not really necessary.
Your suggestion of ground steel sound suspiciously like mounting a Hiwin rail on top of another Hiwin rail . Dont think that would in anyway make the top and bottom rail level with each other.
I think you underestimate the gooey stuff


But what do i know will plod on though ;)
D1


Thu Oct 27, 2016 3:01 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Yeah :D Expensive shinny things turning up . Just waiting for less expensive and def less shinny big lumps of steel to turn up .
[flickr]Image2016-11-01 14.21.02 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
When the steel turns up will start welding the gantry up as thats more or less sorted design wise . Still got a bit more work to do on main frame but i have decided to stick with ballscrews for all axis .
[flickr]Image2FT ROUTER FRAME 2 by D 1, on Flickr[/flickr]
D1


Tue Nov 01, 2016 12:14 pm
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Looking good:) I notice you have four cross channels to allow the epoxy to self- level. I hope this is successful and the viscosity is right for the purpose.

I watched my builders fill my workshop foundation with concrete poured from the concrete lorry, they had to work fast and spread it all around the square periphery of the 1.2m deep ditch. I guess yours is a miniature version of that.

Edward


Wed Nov 02, 2016 4:08 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
I have just received a new Sieg SX2.7

It's a little smaller and lighter than the SX3, but much modernised. For instance, the Y axis moves about 190mm as opposed to 145 of the SX3.

The intention is to immediately convert it to CNC with Hiwin rails and all the nerdy gizmos. I may even get more Y move with the rails. I think this will be ideal for machining the smaller pieces. Then I will build a router just for the occasional big piece.

My new workshop is practically finished, just decorating the walls and ceiling now. So I will soon be able to show progress here with the CNC conversion.

Edward


Wed Nov 02, 2016 8:42 am
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Post Re: CNC Router Build
Hi Edward it looks like its just you and me on this thread :D .
Yes your concrete foundations is a good analogy 1.5 meters is quite deep for foundations by way must be quite a shed .
The extensive testing was to ensure i got the right viscosity and dont think will have any problems. I also use a vibrator to help things along and the curing time is hours rather than minutes . So dont see to many problems except the occasional leak.
Cant think of any other way to do this really and i am not the first so should be ok . Trying to get the main frame surface ground would involve some pretty big machinery so out of question really .
Your little mill looks cute if a little slow 2000rpm the X2 is 2500 and i find this very limiting when machining ali . One of the reasons for the spindle motor option on the router really .
While we officially in off topic people need to watch this if they haven't already http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p0 ... malisation goes a long way to explaing why the world is in such a mess and potentially getting worse :(
D1


Wed Nov 02, 2016 12:32 pm
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