That's looking quite good! If your results are as smoother than your tests I think you've got a winner in that design...

Lookin' good! Can't wait to see the results!

!c

You won't need to tap your holes and worry about stripping them, if you can do extra nuts. That is, if you place a nut on either side of the material, you can use the tension created between the two nuts to hold your bolt in position. e.g.:

==#|#== ('=' is bolt, '#' is nut, '|' is material)

For example, look at this photo:



You can't see the bottom of the material, but in this case, the nut on the top of material sets the height, and the nut on the bottom of the material (not shown) provides tension against the top nut, prevents free-spin and holds it tight.

!c

looking good. keep at it. can't wait to see some demo action.

I've been wondering where you got those 'shoulder bearings' and shaft that connect to the motor?? What are those? How do they attach to the plastic gear that goes into the motor housing?

Any moco shooting takes a long time to set up. Just setting up a simple mumford pan takes like 10x longer than setting up a static TC80n3 shot.

Now imagine a dolly with 2 or 3 axes of motion-controlled movement, plus a dolly to set up and level... it's a lot of work, indeed.

Thanks for sharing your rig set up clip and the resultant shot.
I am always interested in "behind the scene" material dealing with shooting time lapse!

How do you figure out your actual moving shot?
Do you start with a shot time (say 15 sec for example) and then estimate how long the dolly + pan/tilt action needs to take to complete the move from your beginning and end positions?

Thanks for the detailed explanation.
I look forward to viewing your digital T/L.