I shot a several sequences of the Long Beach Marathon on Sunday in HDR. I like the blur effect created by the multiple exposures, but the flicker (despite manual mode) is crazy! Not sure if any flicker filter is gonna solve this one....
So I'd like to just go ahead and take the neutral shot out and create a "normal" timelapse... Any ideas for selecting the correct exposures? I've done one folder by hand and it took ages, I have 4 more. I looked into sorting in Aperture (the apple prog) and some how the "Exposure Bias" EXIF data is at "0" on all of the files. Strange. Any other way you guys know how to do this?
Thanks!
Cody
Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:15 am
Michael
Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:54 am Posts: 611 Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
Do you have python installed? Are your images always in order: the first exposure =0, the second exposure=-1 and the third exposure = +1 ? Then you could run a python script like:
Code:
#!/usr/bin/python
import os import sys os.system("ls *.jpg>files.txt") os.system("mkdir 1") os.system("mkdir 2") os.system("mkdir 3") i=0 files=open('files.txt') for line in files: print line[:-1] print i cmd='cp ' cmd+= line[:-1] cmd+= ' ./' z=i%3+1 cmd+=str(z) print cmd i=i+1
If you have a mess in the order of your images , I can check out the Python EXIF Library. Anyways I wanted to look into that some time ago...
_________________ Canon 400D, 50D, 5D Mk II. Canon L 16-35/f2.8, Sigma 10-20. Adobe Creative Suite 4. website: http://www.magictimelapse.ch/en
Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:12 am
codyw
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:19 am Posts: 34
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
Hey Michael -
I'm on a Mac - not sure if that makes a difference. I can run Parallels on my Macbook though. Some how my images are not in order - I did renumber the photos using a utility called R-Name - I was having trouble with Photomatix unless I renumbered....I could go back to the SD Card I suppose!
Thanks for your help!
Cody
Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:19 am
Michael
Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2008 5:54 am Posts: 611 Location: Oslo, Norway
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
I thought that since OS X, python comes preinstalled on the mac? At least on mine it was... But anyways, going to the EXIF information is probably the best way to sort the images! I'll see what i can do
_________________ Canon 400D, 50D, 5D Mk II. Canon L 16-35/f2.8, Sigma 10-20. Adobe Creative Suite 4. website: http://www.magictimelapse.ch/en
Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:11 pm
codyw
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:19 am Posts: 34
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
So I figured it out - a bit...
So somehow the Canon XSI doesn't seem to print the AEB into the EXIF - I can't find any "+2" "-2" or "0"
So I've sorted in Aperture by shutter speed, giving a range - in this case 1/150-1/400 gets me the center of the bracket.
Crazy!
Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:22 pm
dcmiller
Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 12:44 pm Posts: 69
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
Do any cameras do HDR by changing ISO?
The two causes of flicker could be high shutter speed and the HDR software varing computation. Does any HDR software allow some sort of lock on a set value. I wonder if a grey card could be used and cropped out.
Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:26 am
codyw
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:19 am Posts: 34
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
HDR by ISO would be incredible!!!!
Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:34 am
codyw
Joined: Fri Sep 26, 2008 8:19 am Posts: 34
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
Here's the non-hdr timelapse....
Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:34 am
milapse
Re: HDR Shoot - Normal Timelapse Workflow
Good question! I've been meaning to figure that one out... Man, pilon... arrg. there has to be some sort of sorting prog out there. Their always in order.
I absolutely love that middle pan with the silhouettes cut out against the sky!
dcmiller wrote:
Do any cameras do HDR by changing ISO?
The two causes of flicker could be high shutter speed and the HDR software varing computation. Does any HDR software allow some sort of lock on a set value. I wonder if a grey card could be used and cropped out.
ISO bracketing? interesting...I know the k10d can do 100-400 auto iso and bracket. I'm going to theorize that a step is a step, via aperture, shutter or ISO the trick is getting the light sensor out of the equation or mitigating it (taming it). The problem with the gray card is: where is your spot meter in the frame? dead center.
You could take a grey card out in post... (hint hint) but again I belive most camera spots are 9d?? (maybe a little less) - that's a lot o clonin!
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